Guide · Backup power
What size generator does my house need?
It depends on what has to run during an outage, not the size of the house. List the loads you can't do without, add their running power plus the biggest motor's starting surge, and check the panel and transfer switch. A load calculation by an electrician turns that list into a size.
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Generator sizing goes wrong in two directions. Too small, and the unit trips or stalls the moment the well pump and the air conditioner start together. Too big, and you've paid for capacity you never use. This guide explains how sizing actually works, why the transfer switch you choose changes the answer, and what to have ready before you get a quote. When you're ready for the install, our standby generator and transfer switch installation page covers how we do the work.
Start with the outage, not the house
Two houses with the same square footage can need very different generators. A house on public water with gas heat may only need to keep the furnace blower, the fridge, a sump pump and some lights going. A farmhouse in northern Harford County on a well, with an electric heat pump and a basement that floods, has a much longer must-run list. Start by deciding which of these you're after:
- Essential circuits. A chosen set of circuits: heat, well and sump pumps, refrigeration, some lights and outlets, anything medical. Life goes on, with some limits.
- Whole home. Everything in the house runs, central air and electric cooking included, as if the power never went out.
Running power and starting power
Every appliance has a running load, the power it draws once it's going. Anything with a motor or compressor, like a well pump, sump pump, air conditioner, heat pump or refrigerator, also draws a short surge when it starts, well above its running load. A generator has to carry the total running load and absorb the largest starting surge on top of it.
That's why sizing is done on paper first:
- List every load you want on backup, and read its nameplate rating, or have an electrician measure it.
- Add up the running loads of everything that could be on at the same time.
- Add the starting surge of the biggest motor, because that's the moment the generator works hardest.
- Leave headroom, so the generator isn't running flat out for days.
Online calculators and wattage charts are fine for a rough idea, but they use typical numbers. The nameplates on your own equipment, and the panel schedule, are what a real load calculation uses.
How the transfer switch changes the size
Every safe generator hookup keeps generator power and utility power apart, so the generator can't backfeed the utility lines. The device that does it also affects how big the generator needs to be.
| Connection | What it means for sizing |
|---|---|
| Automatic transfer switch, whole home | The generator has to carry everything the switch transfers, unless a load management system automatically sheds big loads |
| Automatic transfer switch with load management | Load controllers hold off large loads like central air or a water heater until there's room, so a smaller generator can cover a whole house |
| Manual transfer switch or panel interlock | You choose which circuits run, so the generator only has to carry the loads you select |
That first row is a code rule, not just good practice. The National Electrical Code's article on optional standby systems requires an automatically transferred system to be able to supply the full load it transfers, unless a system automatically manages the connected load. With manual transfer, the user picks the loads, and the generator is sized to those.
The panel and service matter too
The generator connects through your panel, so the panel has to be in good shape and have room for the transfer equipment. A full or failing panel may need work first. If you're also planning an EV charger or a heat pump, think about the panel and the generator together. Our guide to upgrading from 100 to 200 amps explains how a load calculation decides service size.
Portable generators: smaller, with rules
A portable generator with an outdoor inlet and an interlock or manual transfer switch is often the lowest-cost way to keep essentials going. It's sized the same way, just to a shorter list. The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission is blunt about where it runs: outdoors only, at least 20 feet from homes and buildings, with the exhaust pointed away from doors, windows and vents, and never in a home, garage, basement, crawlspace or shed, even with the doors open. The CPSC also recommends a generator with a carbon monoxide shut-off and working CO alarms on every level of the house. Never plug a generator into a wall outlet.
Is backup power worth it here?
Outages in central and northern Maryland come from summer thunderstorms and winter storms alike. A single round of severe storms has knocked out power to more than 114,000 customers in central Maryland at once. If your house depends on a well pump or sump pump, or anyone relies on medical equipment, even a short outage matters. If you're still deciding between fuel and stored power, read generator vs. battery backup.
What to have ready for a sizing visit
- Your must-run list: well pump, sump pump, heat, fridge and freezer, medical equipment
- Whether you want essentials only or the whole home
- The fuel you have, or would add, at the house
- Where outside a unit could go, away from windows and doors
- Any plans for an EV charger, heat pump or addition
The connection is permitted electrical work in Harford County, Baltimore County and Baltimore City, and it's inspected before it's finished. Wyatt Electric has wired homes here since 1986. We'll walk through your loads, do the calculation and explain the options and the price before any work starts.
Sources
- NFPA 70: National Electrical Code (2020 and 2023 editions)
- CPSC: warns of generator, carbon monoxide and fire hazards ahead of hurricane season (2026)
- CBS Baltimore: more than 114,000 customers lose power as severe thunderstorms move through
- Harford County: permits and the Permit Center
- Baltimore County Permits, Approvals and Inspections: electrical inspections
- Baltimore City DHCD: ePermits
Sizing questions
Quick answers.
Can I size a generator by square footage?
No. Size depends on which loads have to run at once and the largest motor's starting surge. Two houses the same size can need very different generators.
Why does my well pump matter so much?
Pumps and compressors draw a surge when they start, well above their running load. The generator has to absorb that surge on top of everything else that's running.
Do I need a whole-home generator?
Not necessarily. Many households cover essential circuits with a smaller unit and a manual transfer switch or interlock. Load management can let a smaller standby unit cover a whole house.
Do I need a permit?
Yes for the electrical connection. Connecting a generator to your home wiring is permitted, inspected electrical work in Harford County, Baltimore County and Baltimore City.
Keep reading
Keep reading.
- Generators & backup powerBack-up generators and transfer switches so the power stays on in an outage.
- Generator vs. battery backupRun time, big loads, noise and upkeep: how a generator and a battery compare.
- Upgrading from 100 to 200 ampsWhen 100-amp service stops being enough, and what a 200-amp upgrade involves.
- Panel & service upgradesReplacing old or full panels and upgrading service, permitted and inspected.
Generators & backup power
Before the next storm.
Let's size it right.
Book a visit and a licensed electrician will look at your panel, list what has to stay on in an outage, and give you a price before anything starts. Or call or text 410-557-8557, Monday–Friday, 7am–6pm.
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